It’s pretty widely known that castles are abundant in France. In fact, there are enough places with castles to visit in France to fill your weekends for, well, years. (I’ve read there are at least 40,000 of them scattered throughout the country.)
But I’m no big fan of les chateaux. Sure, I’m still wowed by the fact that there are two castles near my in-laws’ house and I can casually stroll by them (or even stay overnight in them) whenever we visit. The fact that castles are abundant in France leaves me stunned at times. Yet exploring old castles is not necessarily what I am drawn to as a traveler.
But I have to recommend Chantilly, or Domaine de Chantilly to be precise. With extensive grounds that include the place where whipped cream was founded, it’s more than just an imposing French chateau. Essentially, it has quite a bit to offer to all. Also, it is nestled in a pleasant little town of the same name. Chantilly is also an equestrian center and home to the famed Musée de Cheval. Just a 20-minute train ride from Paris, it’s a worthwhile day trip or weekend escape.
The Chateau’s Gardens
For me, Chantilly’s gardens are the real draw. They are extensive and it’s easy to spend a day or two just strolling around. Domaine de Chantilly’s grounds are covered by a mix of woods and stately, open grounds, dotted with fountains, gazebos, statues, ponds, and streams. There’s plenty a little landmark that can give one purpose to their meandering ramble.
Formally, the grounds are separated into the Jardin Anglais (English Garden) with its idyllic lily-pad-rich ponds that frame gazebos and flow under footbridges;
the French Garden, which is open and immaculate, and the Jardin Anglo-Chinois (for which I have still to figure out the Chinese influence).
The chateau itself is surrounded by its own moat and the extensive grounds are hemmed in by a canal on one side. It’s a charming place to explore, find your shady spot, and (for those without kids) rest or have a picnic. (Tables are sprinkled throughout the grounds.)
It’s Kid Friendly
Chantilly is also a very kid-friendly destination. Firstly, the animal factor is a plus. There are sheep, ponies, and even a fenced-in area with kangaroos. (Rumour has it there’s an albino kangaroo on the grounds but we’ve never seen it.) You’ll also see plenty of swans near the river.
In theory, there is a little choo-choo train that goes around the premises, but both times we went it was closed or not operating due to COVID-19. Otherwise, there’s the option to rent a golf cart and drive around.
There are some playground areas for children, a bit sparse, but it’s still something. Plus you can make your baby pretend he’s Louis XIV, or whoever this is supposed to be.
And There’s Whipped Cream
The Anglo-Chinese garden holds Le Hameau Restaurant. It’s located in one of the tiny tutor-style houses that make up a charming little storybook hamlet. The seating is outdoors only, thus the restaurant is only open during the summer.
I can’t remember what we had to eat there because all I cared about was having dessert. This is the place where whipped cream was invented and during the (at least) four times I’ve been to Le Hameau, I have definitely tried to experience each of their culinary takes on crème de chantilly. The crème is so fresh that it must be eaten within several hours of being made or else you risk getting sick. (So, you can’t order it to go.)
The assortment of sorbets with the crème de chantilly was honestly one of the best desserts I’ve ever eaten in my life. At first, I was a bit hesitant to try it. Even though I had wanted to sample everything, I still had to prioritize and I didn’t want to waste one of my precious few experiences with something as seemingly basic as sorbet. But, Oh. My. God. The sorbet perfectly counterbalanced the chantilly, which was as rich as ice cream, perfectly creamy but somehow lighter yet substantial, otherwordly, transcendental. … Ok, I’ll stop now. Basically, if you like whipped cream as much as I do Le Hameau is reason enough to take a little trip to these castle grounds.
Finally, The Chateau
It was only during the last hour of my most recent visit that we actually took a little wander inside the Chateau de Chantilly—a visit mostly motivated by guilt for not yet having seen it.
We first raced through the Grand Chateau and its Musée Condé, which boasts an impressive, overwhelming collection. I found myself pretty captivated by the Raphaels on display in The Sanctuary. The Cabinet de Livres in the Petit Chateau with its floor-to-ceiling collection of 30,000 books and wrap-around mezzanine was my favorite spot during our brief visit.
It is definitely worth a more thorough tour, especially for art history buffs who might cringe reading this.
There are more areas to explore and I’ve certainly not seen everything during my two visits to the Domaine. (The restaurant inside the chateau, for example.)
And although you can’t really tell from the expressions of the people in this picture, the village of Chantilly is pleasant and nice to wander around and enjoy a coffee. Venture a little bit out of the center and you’ll come across some really nice paths along the river channels and more green space to explore. Plus, horses. Many horses.
If you want a break from Paris, check out Chantilly et profitez bien.
How to Get There: To get from Paris to Chantilly, take the RER from Gare du Nord to Chantilly-Gouvieux. Domaine de Chantilly is about a 10-15 walk from the train station.
